rethink sustainability
The CLIC® Chronicles: Meet Spinnova, the sustainable textile company inspired by spiders
At almost every moment, virtually every one of us is surrounded by some kind of fabric: from the clothes we put on in the morning to the upholstery we sit on throughout the day and the bedding that envelopes us as we drift off to sleep at night.
But our reliance on textiles also serves to amplify the many sustainability problems faced by the industry that produces them, from its heavy reliance on finite resources like water and oil to its impact on the environment through pollution and waste. These issues have been well documented, with research showing that the industry is responsible for up to 10% of global carbon emissions and 20% of global wastewater.1
Discover our new CLIC® Shapers video with Shahriare Mahmood, Chief Sustainability officer at Spinnova®, the textile company producing eco-friendly fabric inspired by spiders:
Material challenges
This heavy reliance on water consumption is one of the biggest sustainability challenges facing the textile industry. According to the European Parliament, producing a single cotton t-shirt requires up to 2,700 litres of water.1 This is because cultivating cotton involves multiple water-intensive processes, including irrigation, pesticide and fertiliser application, and washing the harvested raw materials.
Another major sustainability issue is the textile industry’s use of chemicals and other hazardous materials. The sector relies heavily on chemicals for processes such as dyeing and finishing, which can pollute water sources and, in turn, cause environmental damage and risks to human health. The fashion industry is responsible for dumping up to 20% of the world’s wastewater, which often contains toxic chemicals and plastic microfibres.3
The textile industry’s reliance on water and chemicals has even led to water scarcity in some regions. In India, for example, the city of Tiruppur has experienced severe water shortages due to its role as a hub for the country’s textile industry.4
Fast fashion, which involves the rapid production and disposal of clothing, has also created a significant textile waste and pollution problem. The United States, for example, sends around 9 billion tonnes of textile waste to landfill each year – or around 32 kg for each American.5
In short, the textile industry has a lot of work to do. But where many see only problems, one company has seen opportunity.
A new approach to textiles
With its focus on creating high-quality, eco-friendly fabrics, Finnish textile company Spinnova is quickly gaining recognition for its pioneering, sustainable approach to material manufacturing.
Founded in 2014, Spinnova was created to provide a greener alternative to the traditional cotton industry. The company’s founders, Janne Poranen and Juha Salmela, had an unusual source of inspiration, as Shahriare Mahmood, Spinnova’s Chief Sustainability Officer, explains: “Our co-founder, Juha Salmela, was actually observing how a spider creates its web. From that, he had the idea of using microfibrillated cellulose to produce fibres in a very similar way.”
The result is a unique approach to textile production that uses no harmful chemicals – only wood fibres and mechanical processing. The process beginswith wood pulp that is ground to microfibrillated cellulose, which is then spun into fibre using a special spinning technology. The resulting fibre is incredibly soft and durable, making it perfect for a wide range of fashion and textile applications.
Read also: The CLIC® Chronicles: Rethinking textiles for the circular economy
Wood is the new cotton
According to Spinnova, its fibre has a range of sustainability benefits over traditional cotton.
While cotton requires large amounts of water and pesticides to grow, Spinnova’s wood fibres are sourced from sustainably managed forests and require 99.5% less water to produce than traditional cotton. Spinnova’s fibres are also 100% biodegradable and compostable, eliminating the need for harmful disposal methods and reducing the impact on the environment.
At the same time, Spinnova emphasises the circularity of its materials. The company’s wood fibres can be entirely recycled in its production processes with no loss of quality, even without the addition of virgin fibres.
Spinnova delivers its sustainable fibre and fabrics without compromising on versatility. The company’s yarn can be used to create a wide range of fabrics, including lightweight, breathable materials for summer clothing; warm and durable fabrics for winter wear; and even hardwearing textiles for home furnishing and car upholstery.
Spinnova’s technology has already garnered significant attention from both the fashion industry and investors. In 2018, the company raised EUR 115 million from investors6, and has partnered with a number of major fashion brands – including H&M and Marimekko – to develop sustainable fabrics using its technology.
Read also: The CLIC® Chronicles: 10 ways to build a circular economy and the companies leading the way
For Spinnova, a fabric revolution has already begun
Spinnova remains a relatively new player in the textile industry, and is still in the process of scaling up its production capabilities. However, the company is making great strides in this area, and has recently announced plans to expand its production facilities to meet the growing demand for its materials.
A number of high-profile fashion brands such as Adidas and The North Face are already integrating Spinnova’s fabrics into their products – and the company has designs on becoming the industry’s go-to manufacturer of sustainable textiles. “We are here to create a real shift for the industry,” says Mahmood. “Our primary focus is on opening our first commercial-scale factory while making sure that we’re bringing the product to such a level that our partners are satisfied.”
Read also: The CLIC® Chronicles: Patagonia, an outdoor brand with a mission. An exclusive interview here
As the demand for sustainable fashion grows, Mahmood firmly believes that Spinnova is a company worth watching closely: “We need to make the fashion industry more circular. We know that waste is a problem, and that we should expect even more waste in the near future. And given the challenge of climate change, we need much more green technology. Spinnova has the potential to lead the industry down a new, more sustainable path. That is, I think, the beauty of this technology.”
1 European Parliament (2022) ‘The impact of textile production and waste on the environment’. Available here: https://www.europarl.europa.eu/news/en/headlines/society/20201208STO93327/the-impact-of-textile-production-and-waste-on-the-environment-infographic
2 Van Woensel, L. And Lipp, S. S. (2020) ‘What if fashion were good for the planet?’, European Parliament. Available here: https://www.europarl.europa.eu/RegData/etudes/ATAG/2020/656296/EPRS_ATA(2020)656296_EN.pdf
3 United Nations Environment Programme (2019) ‘Fashion’s tiny hidden secret’. Available here: https://www.unep.org/news-and-stories/story/fashions-tiny-hidden-secret
4 Deshpande, N. (2020) ‘India's Textile City of Tiruppur is an Environmental Dark Spot’, The Wire. Available here: https://thewire.in/environment/australian-open-tiruppur-dyeing-bleaching-groundwater-contamination-agriculture-noyyal-river
5 Harmony (n.d.) ‘The Facts about Textile Waste’. Available here: https://harmony1.com/textile-waste-infographic/
6 Textile World (2018) ‘Spinnova Receives Financing, New Investors’. Available here: https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/fiber-world/2018/09/spinnova-receives-financing-new-investors/
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